Adventures in the Himalayas

The Himalayan Backcountry

HIMACHAL PRADESH

“Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the ranges – Something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go. “ ----- Rudyard Kipling, “The Explorer”


We began our journey behind the ranges, where no engine roared louder than the wind and at night the moon outshone all the other lights. Our musings set us out, seeking those special places, their people, uncharted interiors, where the rivers run free with valleys hidden, we found these places, shared them and today we invite you. Come to tracks unbeaten and cultures pure, join us as we journey onwards to frontiers yet untouched, across topography unmapped, over boundaries still undescribed, ever exploring for something hidden, always turning stones. We know the precious mettle is not so far away, and it, as each odyssey we offer, is an experience that not only sparkles, but resonates for all time. And as Kipling said, it is waiting for you.

What are M.O.A trips like? Most people think they are a lot of fun. One ventures into the great outdoors, enjoy close contact with native people and their customs, get close up views of wildlife and feast your eyes on the scenic vistas of the great mountain ranges, rivers, canyons, and deserts of our beautiful planet. We work hard to create adventures that have just the right mix of fun, learning, and challenge, that stimulate your curiosity about the world and leave you the better for having ventured into it. . Invariably you’ll come back a different person with a whole new perspective on life.

Does the phrase “organized group tour” conjure up visions of bewildered tourists being herded around from one place to another? That’s not what we’re all about. We treat you like the rugged individual you are and provide the benefits of group travel without the regimentation. We provide a more personal experience, and are always poised to take advantage of any serendipitous “happenings” that cross our path.

All trips are led by experienced, professional leaders who are experts at what they do – guide, tell stories, educate, translate and bring every detail of your experience alive.

Exploring the world on foot

The words “trekking” and “hiking” are used somewhat interchangeably, but a trek more often refers to a long distance walk along age-old trails, usually in remote areas far from roads or highways. And how many miles do we walk each day? That’s tough to say (especially in the mountains where there are a lot of ups and downs or we take it slowly because of high altitude). We usually characterize the hiking day in terms of hours. On most treks, we hike from four to six hours a day (with an occasional eight hour day). We start early, have a long lunch stop, and arrive at the next camp by mid afternoon, with time to rest and relax before dinner, explore nearby villages, read or write in our journals. During the day, there is ample time to stop and take photos, admire a view, search for an elusive bird. Above all we encourage you to walk at your own pace. You’re here to have fun!
On most trips, porters, pack animals or vehicles carry all the gear. All you need to carry is a small daypack to hold a water bottle, camera and sweater/jacket.

On Safari

Our safaris offer you an authentic experience of the Himalayas in comfort and security, without being insulated from the natural world you came to explore. We emphasize active explorations, including walking trips and hikes from the base camp. Most of our safari tours are customized to generate maximum from the journey and explore the many facets of your numerous safari destinations. We generally travel in rugged “go anywhere” vehicles that allow us to roam the countryside in total freedom.

Camping in style

Since most of our trips venture to remote places, camping is often the natural (and sometimes only!) choice of accommodation. However don’t think you’re going to be roughing it – our camping arrangements are pretty exceptional. We provide comfortable, spacious sleeping tents, a dining tent and a “toilet” tent. On most mountain treks you are provided with hot washing water each morning to use for taking a sponge bath or for washing your clothes (on high altitude this may vary, of course!).

Great Food!

The food on our camping trips is fresh, wholesome and delicious! Our camp cooks are experienced professionals who prepare delightful culinary treats. All water we use for cooking and drinking is purified by filtering, boiling or the use of iodine (whichever is safer).

What’s included?

Our trip prices include accommodations in hotels and inns in cities and villages, tents and all trek, safari arrangements in the field, meals (except for a few meals in major cities where we have found our travelers prefer to be on their own to explore) ground transportation, tour coordinator/guide/leader, porters, camp and cook staffs, group equipment, entry fees and permits. Each trip varies slightly, however. Ask for a detailed itinerary for specific trip information.
Just because you’re joining a “tour” doesn’t mean you can’t have some independence. If you like to explore on your own, plan to extend a destination stay or your trip after the tour, we can make some great suggestions for trip extensions. Call us!

Private Trips

Drawing on our experience and a professional team of adventure travel outfitters, we plan special, high quality adventures for private groups, too.
Maybe it’s a bunch of old college friends who would like to get-together for a really unusual reunion. Or maybe you’d like to share a memorable vacation with your family before the kids grow up and go away to college. We also design “theme” trips for corporations, schools, conservation and non-profit organizations, and other special-interest groups.
We can easily custom-design one of our tours to suit your needs. However don’t let our selection of adventures, no matter how diverse and exciting, set your wanderlust limits. If you can imagine it, there’s an excellent chance we can make it happen.

Affordable Adventures

Private trips don’t necessarily cost more than comparable regular tours for an average size group. We’ll help you plan a trip with your budget in mind. There is no end to possibilities and our experience can help you narrow down the choices and plan an exciting itinerary. We can make all arrangements to ensure your itinerary runs as smoothly as possible.
We’ll be delighted to supply you with all the information and assistance you may need in planning your private trip. To start one of the best adventures of your life, feel free to enquire about the numerous possibilities.

Mountain biking
Mountain Biking is a great way to enjoy the outdoors while exercising and having a whole lot of fun. We have Mountain biking holidays for all levels of biker. Trails that lead you through some of the best mountain biking terrain in the world. Based high in the Himalayas (Shimla, Kinnaur, Spiti, and Ladhakh) we have a choice of holidays to suit any mountain biker. Outfitting for these mountain biking trips includes guides, meals, and vehicle support for gear and food (bicycle rental available). We have gravity trails and extreme trails suitable for the athletic-beginner to the experienced rider. All trips feature full van support, trailside picnics and meals, spectacular scenery and biking, and lots of other exciting activities. Our focus continues to be on offering great singletrack adventures, and remaining local: all our trips occur in our backyard. Areas that we know intimately and have been riding for years. All of our staff and all of our suppliers are local, and we pride ourselves on our environmental and safety record. With all this amazing terrain at our disposal, it's not hard to put a grin on our clients' faces. We've spent years and hundreds of hours exploring the areas we ride in, finding the best trails for our tours, and constantly working on improving and bringing you the best trip you can get. Our fully supported MTB tours offer you the flexibility of choosing amongst our Indian Made Mountain Bikes or on your comfort and suitability you can bring your own. Choose from day trips, or the “Essential Himalayan Backcountry tours”. This is our home - we love riding in this paradise and welcome the opportunity to share it with you!
Just take a peek through the following pages, and unleash yourself. Let your Himalayan adventure begin………………….!

SHIMLA……….Heritage & Hikes
Glorified in history, the erstwhile summer capital of India during “The Raj”, Shimla is derived by a Sanskrit word “Shyamla” a synonym of goddess Kali in blue, also its former name when discovered by the British in 1819.. Spanning seven hills, Prospect, Observatory, Elysium, Jakhoo, Strawberry, Summerhill, Inverarm, with their lush green meadows, pine forests, Himalayan cedar, oak and rhododendron trees Shimla town spreads across a 12km long ridge commanding green terraced fields and wooded valleys. Undisturbed with the company of all that is beautiful ……… cool breezes, lovely sunsets and quiet mountains, Shimla offers a luxury that is priceless. A town which holds onto its colonial legacy with ferocity, dotted with fine examples of various eras of architecture; “Tudor, Edwardian, Georgian, Elizabethan Renaissance”, the place from where one fifth of humanity was ruled, Shimla sure had its place in the sun. A comprehensive heritage tour of the town would detail all that. Day walks in the Shimla hills are resonating and the eyes get a chance to feast on the scenic vistas, sample the hill culture and the simplicity of the hillfolk, a hiker’s paradise. Day trips are organized everyday and there are a variety of options to choose from.
DAY WALKS IN THE SHIMLA HILLS

The Himalayan Discovery Treks.

• The Century Old Trek
• The Mashobra Valley Trek
• The Neckline Trek
• The Oaks & Orchards Hike
• The Sanctuary Trails
The Century Old Trek
Early morning drive from Shimla to Wildflower hall. From Wildflower Hall take a plunge down and a climb back through the picturesque Mashobra valley which is mirrored by the tall Shali Peak (3200m). The route holds thick woods where practically every tree of the region grows - Himalayan Cedar (the almost legendary ‘Deodar’), Spruce, Oak, Rhododendron, Horse-Chestnut, Birch and Pine. Depending on the time of year, a variety of wildflowers grace the hillsides - the rhododendrons flower a dark red in spring, summer has banks of roses, daises and buttercups, the monsoons speckle the luxuriant grass with lilies-of-the-valley and peonies. Through the year, flitting butterflies stab quick flashes of color. The trail crosses picture-perfect hamlets where the word ‘time’ seems to mean only the seasons and the passing years - and where life has followed a steady pace for centuries. Trace fast flowing streams, cross a ‘sacred grove’ whose majestic trees have stood undisturbed for centuries, watch village craftsmen at work, listen to legends that seem as old as the hills - and in a single day, take a lifetime’s memory of some of the marvels that the lower Himalayas hold.
There are two start-options - one can walk down from the Hall to Mashobra Bazaar (30 to 40 minutes) and sample a part of the Hall’s Suburban Heritage Walk, or drive down to the Bazaar (20 minutes) and then start the hike.
Through woods of Himalayan Cedar and Spruce, the path to Seepur takes a steady dip down the valley. Past fields and orchards and wood and slate houses one arrives at the glade of Seepur - which the vicerene Lady Lytton called a “tea-cup shaped valley” and was popular for midnight picnics in the days of the Raj. Several slim streams fed by fresh-water springs nurture the soft grass of Seepur. The glade is held sacred to the local deity, Seep who ‘visits’ the spot at select times of year. Shaded by colossal Cedars, a delightful little temple built in the local style with stone and wood, rests on an edge. Smaller shrines merging with the woods are also there. This is the site of an annual fair held over the second weekend of April - and is a time for local matchmaking.
From Seepur the decline eases out to the tiny village of Shali, which holds a dozen charmingly rustic structures - and is probably named in honour of the facing peak. Here, the hike-path that snakes along the hill holds a bifurcation, and along a mild incline the route takes a right. This also marks the end of the descent. The view on the facing hill has terraced fields and age-old villages. Along the narrow path, the only sounds one is likely to hear are of one’s own breathing and the crunch of boots over scattered cones. The silence only punctuated by the song of a Himalayan Thrush or Barbet.
After Shali comes the home of the deity Seep at Deothi. Local legend has it that the deity was brought with the erstwhile rulers of the Koti state - in whose former territories the hike lies - when they migrated here from Kutlehar, which lies north-west. The temple was first established in the village of Nehra. This tract was then ruled by mavis, local strongmen who wished to share in the worship of Seep. When this was refused, the mavis started desecrating the temple. ‘Speaking’ through his worshippers, Seep declared that he wanted to move from Nehra and a day would come when a long line of ants would march through the village and where they finally circled a mound, was where he wished to reside. The ants came and circled a mound in what is now the village of Deothi - and where Seep was ceremoniously installed. The identity of this local deity has steadily been merged with that of Lord Shiva, the destroyer in the Hindu trinity. Styled as a tall gabled mushroom and belonging to an architectural genre unique to this part of the world, Seep’s temple rests at the edge of a small spur and is surrounded by other structures that ‘belong’ to him - a storehouse, a pavilion and a room for folk musicians.
Cameo appearances of pomegranate trees and tumbling streams that come close to becoming waterfalls, fresh water springs embellished with utilitarian stonework and a little bridge mark the passage to Mulkoti. Walls of shale and quartzite, now reduced to rubble, hold the remains of the little fort of the Raja of Koti where, centuries ago, the Koti rulers first established themselves. Today only the wooden gate and its brass knockers evoke the memory of their stay. The temple harks back to those days and is held in veneration as the seat of several local deities.
Half an hour’s climb from Mulkoti lies the village of Kanda and past this the path crosses the hamlets of Kanda, Ghayabo and Kaneer. The stretch is through terraced fields of assorted vegetables, corn and wheat. Blossom draped or fruit-laden orchards of apples, plums, apricots and peaches offset the fields. Every turn of the track exposes a fresh vista of the valley and the evergreen woods.
The lunch stop is at Kanda, where one can take some time to see some local craftsmanship - and even supplement the meal with fresh fruits and salads selected from the fields and orchards.
After Kaneer begins the sharp hour-long ascent to the century-old ‘Dak bungalow’, a rest house for travelers. The forests become more primeval and the Deodars, ferns and lichens seem to hold their secrets closer. With luck on ones side, one may encounter pheasants and several other birds and even deer, martens and flying squirrels. The area also has leopards, bears and snakes - but the possibility of sighting one is remote.
If one would care to, the trek continues for another hour and a half to Wildflower Hall from Dak Bungalow. Otherwise, the vehicle will be waiting to return one to the comfort of ones Hotel.
The Mashobra Valley Trek.
This trek is identical to the Century Old Trek till the village of Kanda. From this picturesque village located on a prominent spur in the Mashobra Valley, a sharp uphill one-hour ascent brings one to Kotidhar, a quaint hamlet situated amidst rolling meadows interspersed with apple orchards. From here a steep track cuts through Cedar woods to Wildflower Hall and this leg takes a little over an hour and a half. Alternatively, a car can receive one at Kotidhar for the drive back to Shimla.
The Neckline Trek
This trek is identical to the Century Old Trek till the village of Mulkoti, from where a broad path loops back towards Mashobra. This track is the least vertical of the three trekking options mentioned and is designed for those desiring a less strenuous walk.
The Oaks & Orchards Hike
The hike begins from Wildflower Hall and ascends to the helipad located on an adjacent hillock. The initial path till the helipad is along a tarmac road that winds past the Punjab Raj Bhavan, a vestige from the days when Shimla was also the summer capital of Punjab. From the helipad, that commands a 360-degree view of Shimla and the Himalayan ranges, a footpath penetrates the surrounding forests and descends on to the Old Hindustan-Tibet Road, completed in 1853 by enterprising British engineers as an access route to Tibet. A short stroll along this ancient road, lined by apple orchards on one side, culminates at the school for handicapped children, a landmark from where the loop back towards the hotel begins. Here, in season, one can indulge in a frenzied apple-picking session that the various apple trees growing wild all around the school offer. The trail continues along a vintage cart track that once belonged to the Commissioner for the Hill States, a British officer whose residence was converted into the Presidential Retreat, the traditional summer vacation destination of the President of India. The path meanders till the Presidential Retreat through dense Oak groves that shade a rich undergrowth of ferns and a plethora of wild flowers. From the Retreat, a tarmac road leading back to Wildflower Hall offers magnificent views of the eternal snow-capped Great Himalayan Range and the Shali peak.
The Sanctuary Trails
Wildflower Hall is surrounded on three sides by the magnificent Shimla Water Catchment Sanctuary, a 125 year old sanctuary that was established by the British as a reserved forest. The sanctuary was the initial source of water for Shimla, the water pumped to Shimla town through a series of steam pumps, reputed to be the first of their kind in the country. Today this pristine and undisturbed forest stretches across an area of 12 square kilometres and is considered by many as one of the wealthiest storehouses of Himalayan flora. This extremely dense forest is also the habitat for a vast variety of fauna, the most prominent being the Leopard. Although a sighting of this extremely human-shy and nocturnal animal is very rare, regular reports of droppings prove the existence of a large population within the sanctuary. The Himalayan Black Bear and the Brown Bear, Barking Deer, Goral, Jackal, Indian Red Fox, Striped Hyena and the Yellow-Throated Martin are some of the species of wildlife that thrive in the undisturbed forests of the sanctuary. A wide variety of bird and pheasant species can also be spotted in the lower altitude belts of the sanctuary, some of the more prominent ones being the Cheer, Koklas and Khaleej pheasants, the Himalayan Pied Woodpecker, the Great Himalayan Barbet and some sparklingly colorful minivets.
A bifurcation penetrates deep into the sanctuary along a prominent ridgeline. Descend down to the Seyog Forest Rest House, a hundred year old lathe and plaster (Dhajji) structure located in the midst of this silent forest. The narrow trail undulates for an hour or more through one of the best-preserved forests in Asia. Cedars, Firs, Pines and Oaks jostle each other for space and the canopy-density at places prevents even the sunlight from peeping through to the forest floor. Droppings and pugmarks of the fauna are regular sightings along this trail and if ones luck holds out, a perky Barking Deer too might flash past in gay abandon. A well-deserved lunch at the ancient rest house can be followed by a stroll down to the man-made reservoir that collects water from across the sanctuary before supplying it to Shimla town. As one would guess, this is an excellent site for some bird-watching too.
The Shali Tibba Ascent
(Single Day)


The Shali Tibba (2867m) is the highest peak in the vicinity of Shimla. It is a magnificent isolated pinnacle with a Kali temple on the top. The ascent up to Shali is an ancient trail through dense pine forests and rolling alpine pastures. It is a steep and steady climb to the often mist enveloped peak. The peak commands an unforgettable view of endless snow covered ranges along with the Sutlej valley and the densely forested hills of Shimla, Fagu and Narkanda. For the avid photographer and nature lover, this one-day trek offers the experience of a lifetime.

DETAILED ITINERARY:

1) SHIMLA (2205 m)- MASHOBRA - KHATNOL (1850 m)...45 km.

Depart Shimla at 6 A.M. by jeep. Breakfast at Mashobra, noted for its apple Orchards and thick woods of oak and pine. Proceed via Baldhea along a fascinating dirt track to Gulshaini, a tiny hamlet (1250 m) situated at the base of the peak. From Gulshaini it is a steady climb along a rough road till Khatnol, an isolated village perched amidst rolling fields. Here we park the jeep to start the ascent.

2) KHATNOL - SHALI TIBBA (2867m)...5 km.

Halt at the Khatnol Forest Rest House for a well-deserved break along with a sumptuous lunch. Begin the climb to Shali after a short rest. The landscape changes dramatically as we follow the ancient trail towards the peak. It is a three-hour climb at a leisurely pace with ample time to stand and stare at the surrounding magnificence and the imposing peak looming ahead. The final climb is a tough one and is amply rewarded by the breathtaking view from the top.

3) SHALI TIBBA - KHATNOL – SHIMLA

After a visit to the historic temple and a frenzied session of photography, we start the surprisingly quick descent down to Khatnol. One is back in the jeep by sunset to start the drive back to Shimla. Reach Shimla by late evening for a well-deserved and satisfying sleep with the memories of climbing the highest peak of the Shimla hills.



The Shali Tibba Ascent
(2 Days)

The Shali Tibba (2867m) is the highest peak in the vicinity of Shimla. It is a magnificent isolated pinnacle with a Kali temple on the top. The ascent up to Shali is an ancient trail through dense pine forest and rolling alpine pastures. It is a steep and steady climb to the often mist enveloped peak. The peak commands an unforgettable view of endless snow covered ranges along with the Sutlej valley and the densely forested hills of Shimla, Fagu and Narkanda. For the avid photographer and nature lover, this trek offers the experience of a lifetime.

DETAILED ITINERARY:

DAY 1: SHIMLA (2205 m) - GULSHAINI (1250 m)...40kms.
Depart Shimla at 9 A.M. by jeep. Breakfast at Mashobra, noted for its apple orchards and thick woods of oak and pine. Proceed via Baldhea along a fascinating dirt track to Gulshaini, a tiny hamlet situated at the base of the peak. Here we park the jeep to start the ascent.

GUSHAINI - KHATNOL (1850 m)...4kms.
From Gulhaini it is a steady climb for one and half-hours till Khatnol, an isolated village perched amidst rolling fields. Halt at the Gushaini Forest Rest House for a well-deserved rest along with a sumptuous lunch. In the evening one can explore the village and walk along the beautiful little tracks leading to enchanting spots. Dinner and O/N in rest house/Camps

DAY 2: KHATNOL - SHALI TIBBA (2867 m) - KHATNOL….9 kms.
Start the climb early in the morning to Shali. The landscape changes dramatically as we follow the ancient trail towards the peak. It is a three-hour climb at a leisurely pace with ample time to stand and stare at the surrounding magnificence and the imposing peak ahead. The final climb is a tough one and is amply rewarded by the breathtaking view from the top. It is a must to visit the historic temple where legend states that one's wishes come true. After lunch and a frenzied session of photography, start the surprisingly quick descent back to Khatnol to pick up the luggage and continue the descent to Gulshaini.

KHATNOL - SHIMLA
One is back in the jeep by sunset to start the drive back to Shimla. Reach Shimla by late evening for a well-deserved and satisfying sleep with the memories of climbing the highest peak of the Shimla hills.



The Shali Tibba Ascent
The peak with (what) a view!
(2 Days)

The Shali Tibba (2867m) is the highest peak in the vicinity of Shimla. It is a magnificent isolated pinnacle with a Kali temple on the top. The ascent up to Shali is an ancient trail through dense pine forest and rolling alpine pastures. It is a steep and steady climb to the often mist enveloped peak. The peak commands an unforgettable view of endless snow covered ranges along with the Sutlej valley and the densely forested hills of Shimla, Fagu and Narkanda. For the avid photographer and nature lover, this trek offers the experience of a lifetime.

DETAILED ITINERARY:

DAY 1: SHIMLA (2205 m) - MASHOBRA…16 kms.
Depart Shimla at 9 A.M. by jeep. Breakfast at Mashobra, noted for its apple orchards and thick woods of oak and cedar.
MASHOBRA – THAILA …..8 kms.
Steep descent through dense forests and picturesque glades till Thaila located on the banks of the Nauti River at the bottom of the valley.
THAILA - GULTHAINI ….4 kms.
A hot and steady climb till Gulthaini
GULTHAINI - KHATNOL (1850 m)...3kms.
From Gulthaini it is a steady climb for one and a half-hours till Khatnol,, an isolated village perched amidst rolling fields. Halt at the Khatnol Rest House for a well-deserved rest along with a sumptuous lunch. In the evening one can explore the village and walk along the beautiful little tracks leading to enchanting spots. Dinner and O/N in rest house.

DAY 2: KHATNOL - SHALI TIBBA (2867 m) - KHATNOL...9 kms.
Start the climb early in the morning to Shali. The landscape changes dramatically as one follows the ancient trail towards the peak. It is a three-hour climb at a leisurely pace with ample time to stand and stare at the surrounding magnificence and the imposing peak ahead. The final climb is a tough one and is amply rewarded by the breathtaking view from the top. It is a must to visit the historic temple where legend states that one’s wishes come true. After lunch and a frenzied session of photograph, start the surprisingly quick descent back to Khatnol where the jeep picks one up to return to Shimla.

SHIMLA-CHAIL WEEKEND TREK

Quick Route Guide: Shimla-Chhota Shimla-Kasumpti-Mehali-Kawalag-Ashwin Pul-Junga-Paidala Bridge-Junedghat-Chail

Total Time: 8-9 hours for ~ 30 kms. at an unhurried (but not leisurely) pace including normal stopovers for rest and food.

Trail Description: There is a proper road from Shimla to Chail via Junga which joins Kufri-Chail road. But the trail through hills is not well defined. One has to take “pagdandi” shortcuts on the Shimla-Junga road (26 Km.) and then again off Junga-Solan road. After Kasumpti and before Mehali, look for a way downhill on your right. You will meet the road again while bypassing Mehali. Further, at Kawalag (12 Km. from Shimla) there is a water pumping station. You should reach here in 2 hours. Ask for a "pagdandi" route to Ashwin Pul or Junga. Here, you should look for any well-defined downhill routes on your left. Just take it. See the photograph on the next page. It will eventually lead to Ashwin Pul (21 Km.). This will result in major saving in time and distance. You should reach here in another hour.
From Ashwin Pul to Junga is 5 Km. by road and probably there are no further short cuts upto Junga. In all you would have made it to Junga in 4 hours. Junga provides the first halt where you can buy supplies and have a meal.

At Junga you have to leave the Junga-Chail road (which joins the Shimla-Chail road via Kufri) and take the Junga-Sadhupul-Kandaghat-Solan road. Walk for about 3 kms. to reach a temple and a bridge before Paidala. Just past the bridge turn left in the upstream direction and then take an immediate right turn uphill for a well-defined steep trail. If you miss this, you will head for a village nearby instead. Confirm with locals if in doubt. The trail climbs 600 m. uphill to join the road from Kufri to Chail at Junedghat. It maintains a general southern direction through thick jungle but bifurcates half way up into two well-defined paths going southeast & southwest. Take the left South-eastern branch. This leads to the top plateau of Junedghat. From Junga you should reach here in 3 hours. Continue left (Eastwards) on a well-defined level trail, which skirts a hillock keeping it to the left (do not climb up as this leads to a small village at the top and further to Alampur). Within 15 minutes, you should reach the road at Junedghat. You can take a short tea break here. From Junedghat Chail is only 3 Km.

The Northern Trek from Shimla

SHIMLA TO TATTAPANI


A relatively unexplored area of Shimla main town, full of good walks along wide roads or narrow paths is the Bharari Spur. Step from Lakkar Bazaar, go past Auckland House School and reach the Longwood rise. Enclosing Sterling Castle, two roads branch from here and just before Kelston, meet again. Continue your walk down past the Police Lines to Bharari Bazaar. From Bharari you can walk to the villages that lie to right of the Seismic Recording Centre, or to the villages of Poabo and Kamiana. Continue further through thick woods of Cedar crossing small villages and ridges and on one of these Meadows we have our Lunch. It’s not long before the sight of the river Sutlej welcomes us. Tattapani 655mts is well known for its hot water springs, known for their medicinal value which infact emerge from the river Sutlej. The river Sutlej also presents itself as a challenge to Rafting enthusiasts which begins from Chaba and ends at Tattapani. After a good rest and refreshing ourselves we head back to Shimla in the vehicle waiting for us via Naldehra and Mashobra.

The trek is 22 kms long if started from Lakkar bazaar. For comfort we start the trek from the village of Kamiana at the end of the Bharari spur. From here it is a 12 km walk to Tattapani.


The Taradevi Trail

11 Kms from Shimla on the National Highway, is Taradevi. Three trails lead up to the temple from the road head. Rich in flora and fauna this is a moderate hike for about three hours, through a dense forest, and you reach the high point 1832mts for excellent views of Shimla town. After a hearty lunch at the temple we continue further down the trail to Shoghi to either enjoy the toy train ride back to Shimla or get picked up by our cabs to return to town. Alternatively one can go by car to the temple and do the hike on the downward trail, or even start late afternoon to reach in time at the top to enjoy the spectacular sunset and get picked up by our cab to return to Shimla.

Heritage Walks

The Suburban Heritage Walk
A twenty-minute drive from the hotel, this is a leisurely one hour walk from Craignano to the Fruit Research Station. Craignano was initially a beautiful Italian villa built by Chevalier Peliti, a baker to the Viceroys who had name the villa on his own estate in Italy. The property is situated on the top of an isolated and well-wooded hill and from the house and grounds is obtained a magnificent view of the country on all sides with the snow-clad mountains in the distance on the north and east. A broad cedar-shaded trail, criss-crossed by tiny streams, loops around the Craignano hillock. One ends the walk with a look around the Fruit Research Centre - pioneering apple research in the state and also the site where the first apple tree in the country was planted in 1887 by Mr. Coutts, an ardent gardener and a tailor to the Viceroys. The grounds of the Research Centre also hold a fine botanical garden that boasts of some extremely rare trees, including the Maidenhair, the Chinese Fir, the English Oak and the Japanese Spruce. One can even quench ones thirst with some fresh apple juice that is manufactured by the research centre itself. Including the twenty-minute drive back to the hotel, the entire trip lasts three hours.

The Colonial Heritage Walk
A full day excursion including a three-hour walk starting from the Viceregal Lodge, across The Cecil, Gorton Castle, St. Michael’s Cathedral, The Mall, The Ridge and the Clarkes. The route offers a wide spectrum of old colonial architecture and a glimpse of Shimla’s glorious history. The walk can be more leisurely with a stop for shopping on the legendary Mall, lunch at Cecil or tea at Clarkes. The walk can also be done as a half day option by only visiting selected destinations.

The Wild Strawberry Trail
A pleasant one hour, four kilometer walk from Wildflower Hall, skirting the Shimla Water Catchment Sanctuary. The trail loops astride the Mahasu ridge through the lush green forest reserve and is suitable for both the elderly and children on account of its gentle gradient. This tiny trail is carpeted with wild strawberries right through, is a wonderful introduction to the flora of the Himalayas and offers some great views.


ONE DAY GUIDED TRIPS OF SHIMLA HILLS

TOUR ONE
Shimla – Mashobra – Naldehra – Wildflower hall – Kufri – Shimla.

Early morning departure from hotel to drive to Mashobra, a wooded suburb known for its quiet charm. Follow the mountain road to Naldehra, Asia’s highest and one of India’s oldest Golf courses. The place is so enchanting that Lord Curzon gave his daughter Alexandra “Naldehra” as her middle name. Musings thereafter we continue back to explore more of Shimla hills. First the Wildflower hall for its panoramic view of the Sutlej valley and then further up to the winter ski resort of Kufri. Here we sample the Himalayan wildlife at the Kufri nature park and then a short walk or a horse ride up to Mahasu peak. Drive back to Shimla main town

TOUR TWO
Shimla – Wildflower hall – Kufri – Koti – Chail – Sadhopul – Kandaghat – Shoghi – Taradevi – Shimla.

Early morning departure from Shimla and we take the National Highway 22 up to Kufri where we feast our eyes to the beautiful scenery and sample the Himalayan Wildlife at the Nature Park. From here we follow the bridle path to Mundaghat where we divert to follow a thickly wooded path to Koti. Chail 6 kms is famous for its nature walks, The palace of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh (now a sprawling hotel run by Himachal Pradesh Tourism Corporation) and the highest cricket ground of the world. It used to be the summer capital of the maharaja, when he ousted by the British from Shimla set this beautiful Hill station from he could look at the British from a place higher than Shimla. We sample the serene walks in the woods and after a hearty lunch continue to the other side of the valley towards Sadhopul, a small village on the banks of the Ashwani River is a charming solitary unlisted picturesque spot of Himachal. Driving through the Kalka Shimla highway is one of the pleasures of our Day trip and we reach Taradevi hill, one of the highest peaks in the vicinity of Shimla. It is dedicated to The Goddess Taradevi and has great views of the Sprawling Shivalik Hills. A short drive and we reach Shimla.

TOUR THREE
Shimla – Mashobra – Naldehra – Sunni – Tattapani – Shimla.

Early morning departure from Shimla, we drive to Mashobra an enchanting spot with thick growth of Himalayan Cedars, Rocks burguy Pine, Oaks and spruce. Known for its sublime nature walks it’s a nature lover’s paradise. Drive to Naldehra, a charming place away from the madding crowd well known for its Golf course India’s Highest. Lord Curzon was so fascinated by the sylvan beauty of the place that he named his daughter Lady Alexandra Naldehra. Earlier known as Nal-Deo it is situated amidst a spectacular grove of cedar trees and carpeted with a springing turf. Continue further downhill to Tattapani, by the banks of the River Sutlej, made famous by the Hot Sulphur springs known for their medicinal qualities. You can too enjoy the bath at specially made bathing places or just go for a walk by the riverside. Further up is the Shiv Goofa meaning Cave which has a growth of Stalagmites. Tattapani is viable for River Rafting and the stretch from Chaba to Tattapani is a rafter’s delight. The season is from April to July and then again commences Mid September to Late November. After spending some good time we head to Shimla.

TOUR FOUR
Shimla – Wildflower hall – Fagu – Theog – Matiana – Narkanda – Hatu peak – Jobagh – Narkanda – Tani Jubbar - Shimla.

Catching up with National Highway 22 early morning we head on to Narkanda 2708mts. nestled amidst Sub alpine forests of fir and birch, and also serves as a winter Ski Resort. Further up the road, begins the climb towards Hatu Peak. 3200mts. the highest peak in this area well known for its grand views and the Hatu Temple dedicated to Goddess Hateshwari. The Alpine meadow of Jobagh is a twenty minute walk from here. Musings thereafter we continue on to Tani Jubbar a small hamlet by a lake side in the middle of the Apple Country of Kotgarh and Thanedar. About 60% of Himachal Apples are grown here. A frenzied session of photography and we head back to Shimla.

TOUR FIVE
Shimla – Theog – Chailla – Jubbal– Hatkoti – Shimla

Following the National Highway up to Theog we take a diversion towards the Pabbar valley, another one of the pristine valleys of Himachal Pradesh. Also known as the apple country it is fed by the river Pabbar and one of the best spots in the country for trout fishing. Famous for its Hateshwari temple, dating back to the 7th-8th century constructed in the classical “Shikhara” style and was given a “Pagoda” roof in 1885. By the banks of the river Pabbar the temple spreads in n area of 5 sq.km. Jubbal is known for its palace, rising dramatically over the “Bishkulti” stream, designed by a French architect in 1930. Khara Pathar village. Jubbal has a huge free-standing egg shaped boulder, hence the name Khara Pathar (Khara-Standing, Pathar-Stone). Worn smooth by ages of erosion this is a magnificent natural wonder of the area. Kotkhai village before Jubbal is apple country. By the banks of the River Giri, there are many good walks in the area. Legend has it that The River Giri gushed out of Kupar peak, that lies above Kotkhai, when a holy man struck the ground with a pair of sacred tongs, during a time of drought. A good day in the mountains and we head back to Shimla.

TOUR SIX
Shimla – Narkanda – Rampur – Nirath – Jeori – Sarahan – Shimla

Early morning departure from Shimla around 7:00 A.M and winding through the National Highway we reach Narkanda. We follow the bridle path to Hatu peak, the highest of the region with the temple of Goddess Hateshwari perched on top. The scenic mountain vistas from the top call for a good session of photography and thereafter we follow the highway down to the Sutlej valley. Worth visiting is an ancient temple of “Sun God” at Nirath 9 Kms short of Rampur, the erstwhile seat of the Bushahir Kingdom. Follow the right bank of the river Sutlej up to Jeori, from where we take a diversion to drive to Sarahan. Sarahan is an ancient temple town with the temple of Bhimakali being the highlight of the quaint little village. With its fused Buddhist/Hindu architecture it provides the perfect backdrop against the immense views of the Srikhand range. One can easily make out the prominent peaks Gushu-Pishu, Srikhand from any point in Sarahan. Also worth visiting is the Western Tragopan “The King of Mountain Birds”, at the Bird Park. Drive back to Shimla.

TWO NIGHTS/THREE DAYS GUIDED TRIPS FROM SHIMLA


THE JALORI PASS SOJOURN

DAY ONE
Shimla – Tattapani – Luhri – Ani – Khanag – Jalori Pass – Shoja

DAY TWO
Shoja – Jalori Pass – Serolsar Lake – Jalori Pass………………. 6 Hr Day Hike
Jalori Pass – Banjar – Gushaini

DAY THREE
Gushaini – Aut – Mandi – Rewalsar Lake – Shimla

Combining the best day hikes and an excellent journey through the mountains we visit the Jalori pass which connects the Shimla district to the Kullu District. The highlight of the tour is the Serolsar lake 3100mts, a three hour hike from the Jalori Pass top. On the edge of the Great Himalayan national park this valley is a nature lover’s delight. The quiet villages of Shoja, Gushaini by the banks of the river Tirthan are delights. Our journey first takes us to Tattapani famous for its hot sulphur springs by the banks of the river Sutlej. After breakfast we take a winding road by the right left bank of the Sutlej to reach Luhri from where our ascent starts to the Jalori Pass 3223mts. This is interior Himachal and we sample the simplicity of the hillfolk, their culture as we journey through to reach the Jalori Pass top. 5kms further down a steep descent is the village of Shoja on a long grassy meadow our first night halt. A walk through the forest the next morning amongst cedars, rhododendrons, oaks, horse chestnut and meadows of iris we reach the Jalori pass and deeper into the forest to follow the trail to Serolsar lake. On return our vehicle picks us up to drive down to Tirthan valley a drive of about 45 mins. Relax by the riverside or freshen up your spirits in the natural swimming pool, if fishing is your interest then our local representative will take enough care to take you out trout fishing. Evening by the bonfire. Mandi is a four hour drive from Gushaini and further up one hour is Rewalsar Lake. Visit the monastery by its banks and thereafter return to Shimla.

MOUNTAIN LAKE AND HIGH PASS *****Camping *****

DAY ONE
Shimla – Tattapani – Luhri – Ani – Khanag – Jalori Pass - Serolsar

DAY TWO
Serolsar Lake – Jalori pass – Shoja – Banjar – Gushaini

DAY THREE
Gushaini – Aut – Mandi – Rewalsar Lake – Shimla

Journey through small mountain villages to reach Tattapani, by the River Sutlej, enjoy hot sulphur baths and after a hearty breakfast follow the river to Luhri and further up the valley to reach Jalori pass 3223mts. Hike through a verdant pine forest to set up camp at Lake Serolsar, one of the high mountain Lakes of Himachal. This is the best way to soak oneself in nature’s bounty, a night by a Himalayan Lake. Hike to Shoja in the morning to sample the quiet life and culture of the hillfolk of this area. Further down is Gushaini by the river Tirthan edging close to The Great Himalayan National Park. There are very good walks in the vicinity of the village which one can attempt or else choose to stay by the river bank, go swimming in the natural swimming pool or if you are a fishing enthusiast try trout fishing. Set up camp by the river side. Early morning drive to Mandi, via Aut following the river Tirthan down the valley and then further up to Rewalsar Lake. Sample the Monastery here and then a lazy drive to Shimla.

THE APPLE COUNTRY TOUR

DAY ONE
Shimla – Fagu – Theog – Chailla – Kotkhai – Khara Pathar – Jubbal – Hatkoti

DAY TWO
Hatkoti – Rohru – Sungri – Khadrala – Baghi – Kotgarh

DAY THREE
Kotgarh – Tani Jubbar – Hatu Peak – Jaubagh – Narkanda – Matiana – Theog – Fagu – Shimla

There is no better way to discover mountains than its people, their culture and lifestyle. Our Apple Country tours just emphasize on the fact. Day one sees one journey through the Hindustan Tibet road for the morning to divert from Theog towards Chailla following the Giri up to Kotkhai and Khara Pathar. Continue to Jubbal to check its magnificent palace rising above the banks of the Bishkulti stream. 20 kms of further descent into the Pabbar valley we reach Hatkoti, well known for its 7th-8th century, Classical Shikhara style temple of “Mahishasurmardini” popularly known as Hateshwari temple. Hatkoti is picturesque to the point of perfection. We head back to Jubbal palace which would be our night halt. 30 kms from Jubbal is Rohru town by the banks of the River Pabbar, scenically enchanting Chirgaon which for long has been on the Angler’s beat after trout fish was introduced here in 1938. Chirgaon is also the base for treks to Sarahan, Sangla valley and the mesmerizing Chanshal valley. There are century old Log huts in the Chirgaon region which can also be our choice of accommodation for the first night. We follow the meandering hill roads to reach the upper apple belt at Khadrala with a brief stopover for its splendid views of the Himalayas. Down the road we go through thick pine forest to reach Kotgarh. Apple was first introduced here in the late 19th century by Satyanand Stokes. Day three finds us exploring the area which is rich in culture, history and Flora and fauna. We sample the 19th century church, the Tani Jubbar Lake and then following the mountain road to Hatu Peak, the highest in the region. Walk to Jaubagh a Grassy meadow, a short hike from the peak. Drive back to Shimla.

COUNTRY ROADS

DAY ONE
Shimla – Mashobra – Baikhalti – Fagu – Theog – Matiana – Narkanda – Hatu Peak - Kotgarh – Thanedar

DAY TWO
Thanedar – Kotgarh – Tani Jubbar – Baghi – Khadrala – Sungri – Taklesh – Nogli – Rampur – Gaura – Sarahan

DAY THREE
Sarahan – Jeori – Rampur – Luhri – Tattapani – Naldehra – Mashobra – Shimla

Himachal is renowned the world over for its Rally terrain. “The Himalayan Rally”, “Mountain Challenge”, “Raid de Himalaya”, are some of the few which have won accolades and praise the world over for their execution and their routes. Our tour combines the best of these Country Roads to take you into interior Himachal, Villages, Stunning mountain vistas, Rivers and Brooks; this is not a rally however the adventure is lived each meter we travel at easy pace. First day we find ourselves meandering to Mashobra a small village outside Shimla and following a mountain road with great views up to Fagu where the national highway 22 joins us. Way past apple, peach and cherry orchards we reach Narkanda, to begin our ascent to Hatu Peak the highest in the region. With splendid views of the Sutlej valley and the Himalayas Hatu is the place to be. Kotgarh further down the valley is only a 45 mins drive from Narkanda, the Heart of the Apple country of Himachal. This is our abode for today. Explore Kotgarh and surroundings the next morning with a visit to Tani Jubbar, Century old church and thereafter follow the back country roads via Baghi, Khadrala, Sungri, Taklesh to reach Nogli, 9 kms short of Rampur by the banks of the river Sutlej. This was the seat of the Bushahir Kingdom. Taking a turn from the National Highway we take on the “Old Hindustan Tibet Road” via Gaura, Kinnu, small villages dotting the landscape in the shadow of the Srikhand range of the Himalayas to reach Sarahan, famous for its Bhimakali temple. There are splendid walks in the region and we make the most of them coupled with a visit to “The Western Tragopan” King of Birds at the bird park. Next day down 17kms to Jeori, and we follow the Trail of The Sutlej River up to Tattapani, famous for its hot sulphur springs and “Shiv Goofa”. After a splendid journey it is time we head back to Shimla.


MODERATE TREKKING IN THE SHIMLA REGION

“CHURDHAR” Bangle of snow, 3647mts.

DAY ONE
After breakfast we start for the camp at Dianli (distance 131 kms) height 1363 mts. This camp is next to river Shalvi You cross, Shimla, Kufri the famous sky resort .Theog, Sainj and Chopal. The drive is through thick pine and deodar forest. Packed lunch enroute. You reach the campsite in the evening. Rest and Bonfire.

DAY TWO
Dianli– Thekra (distance 6 kms) height 2400 mts).

You trek through small villages, dense forests and apple orchards.

DAY THREE
Thekra – Khadder (distance 12 kms), height 2600

Gradual ascending trek through dense pine forest one enjoys the beautiful natural spread all around us .

DAY FOUR
Khadder – Churdhar (distance 12 kms) height 3647 mts

This trek is mostly on hill top once again you are passing through thick pine forest. At the peak there is an old Shiva temple. You have a 360-degree view from here. At night one can see the lights of Chail.

DAY FIVE
Churdhar – Halda Jubber (distance 8 kms) height 2400 mts

Going down hill passing through dense forest, this area is also known as Botanical Paradise, a wild life sanctuary is also there.

DAY SIX
Halda Jubber -Sarain – Shimla (distance 131 kms) height 2328 mts

Trekking through small villages, enjoying the beautiful scenery of distant mountain ranges. You are passing through forest and crossing apple orchards. Drive back to Shimla


“THE SHIKARI DEVI” TRAIL

DAY ONE
Shimla – Tattapani – Chindi – Rohanda

DAY TWO
Rohanda – Kamru Nag Lake

DAY THREE
Kamru Nag Lake – Shikari Devi

DAY FOUR
Shikari Devi – Karsog – Tattapani – Shimla


OVER THE BASHLEO PASS AND INTO TIRTHAN VALLEY

DAY ONE
Shimla – Narkanda – Rampur – Baghipul (by Jeep)
Baghipul – Sarahan (5km Hike)

DAY TWO
Sarahan – Bashleo Pass (13kms/6hrs)

DAY THREE
Bashleo Pass – Batahad (12kms/4hrs)
Batahad – Gushaini (by jeep)

DAY FOUR
Gushaini – Banjar – Shoja – Jalori Pass – Serolsar Lake – Jalori Pass – Gushaini

DAY FIVE
Gushaini – Aut – Mandi – Rewalsar Lake – Shimla


THE JALORI PASS……………….EXPERIENCE A NEW HIGH!

DAY ONE
Shimla (2205) - Ani (1240 m)...105 km.

By road. Afternoon visit town. Ani is a small town with modern amenities. O/N in rest house.

DAY TWO
Ani - Chowai (1880 m)...11 km.

An easy ascent to start the trek with. Route through villages, forests and glens. O/N in a quaint and old rest house situated amidst fairyland surroundings.

DAY THREE
Chowai - Takrasi (2250 m)...12 km.

Route continues to ascend across the valley through an increasing abundance of flora and fauna. Takrasi is an isolated village off the beaten track. O/N in another charming rest house.

DAY FOUR
Takrasi - Khanag (2530 m) ...12 km.

The ascent continues as the vegetation changes with the increasing altitude. Khanag is a quaint hamlet with an unforgettable view of the surrounding magnificence of some of the thickest forest areas of Himachal. O/N in rest house.

DAY FIVE
Khanag - Sreo-sar lake (3560 m) - Jalori pass (3223 m)...12 km.

Moderate to steep gradient through whispering coniferous forests up to the beautiful and mystic Sreo-Sar lake. After lunch next to an exquisitely carved ancient temple on the banks of the lake, walk along a level ridge to the Jalori Pass for pick-up by vehicle to return to the guesthouse at Khanag.

DAY SIX
Khanag – Jalori pass - Raghunathpur fort - Shoja (2683m)...7 km.

Leave the rest house by vehicle till the pass and start the trek. To the left of the pass are the ruins of the historical Raghunathpur Fort (3306m). A gradual walk through enchanting scenery brings one to the fort. After lunch and exploring the ruins, descend to Shoja, a camper’s delight. O/N in a magnificent guesthouse made entirely of polished wood.

DAY SEVEN
Shoja - Jibbi (2050)...7 km.

Steep descent till Ghiaggi through the beautiful Jibbi valley. After the bewitching hamlet of Ghiaggi, it is a short level walk till Jibbi. O/N in guesthouse.

DAY EIGHT
Jibbi - Shimla...235 km. / Banjar - Manali...95 km.

By road. After pick-up from Banjar, proceed to Shimla/ Manali to end a memorable experience.


SARAHAN TO NARKANDA *****exclusive*****

DAY ONE
Shimla – Tattapani – Luhri – Rampur – Gaura - Sarahan

Sarahan is famous for 800 year old Bhimakali temple. Night Stay in Hotel Shrikhand.

DAY TWO
Sarahan-Daranghati 15kms/5hr

Sarahan offers fabulous view of the Shrikhand range. The walk is through forests and apple orchards.

DAY THREE
Daranghati-Kasha 16kms/6hr

The walk from Daranghati 2,690m is through a reserved forest. Night stay in Kasha at 2,150m.

DAY FOUR
Kasha-Takletch 15kms/6hr

The walk is downhill most of the day. Taklech is a small village with a nice Rest House.

DAY FIVE
Takletch-Bahli 20kms/7hr

The walk to Bahli 2,200m is a steady medium climb through the forest.

DAY SIX
Bahli-Sungri 18kms/6hr

Bahli offers a beautiful view of the valley below. The walk is through lush green jungles to Sungri 2,600m.

DAY SEVEN
Sungri-Baghi 20kms/7hr

Walk through a forest.

DAY EIGHT
Baghi-Narkanda 18kms/7hr

The trek is through Hatu peak 3,136m which is the highest point in the region. From Hatu peak, walk down to Narkanda 2,700m.

DAY NINE
Narkanda- Shimla

Drive down to Shimla, the "Raj" capital of British India.


SARAHAN TO WANGTU………………the rest houses of the Raj era

DAY ONE
Shimla/ Sarahan (175 kms)
Morning drive from Shimla to Sarahan, a beautiful village surrounded by apple orchards and dominated by Shrikhand Mahadev Peak (5155 M) which resembles the "Shivling,"and is famous for the Bhimakali Temple, a wonderful mixture of Buddhist and Hindu architecture. ON arrival check in at hotel. Overnight in hotel.
DAY TWO
Sarahan – Chaura (16kms)
The path leads through forests of Pine, Horse-chestnut, Oak and Rhododendron along the old Hindustan Tibet Road. The trail is fairly level to start with but after a few kilometer sit descends and crosses two streams, then continues down gently to the Chaura Forest Rest House. An ancient temple of Hirma Devi is located 300 meters below the Chaura Forest Rest House. Overnight in tents.
DAY THREE
Chaura/ Tranda (8 kms)
Again the path is a fairly level walk for the first 6 km after which it climbs steeply for 2km to reach the Forest Rest House of Taranda, situated on the top of a ridge. Overnight in tents.
DAY FOUR
Tranda/ Paunda (10 kms)
A pleasant walk through the thick Pine Forests. The trail goes along the edge of a precipice as far as Solding Nala, which it crosses by a bridge. The Trail then crosses another stream before climbing gradually to meet a road that links the new Hindustan-Tibet Road with the villages of Sungra and Nichar. Arrive Paunda. Overnight in tents.
DAY FIVE
Paunda/ Nichar (12 kms)
An easy walk. After 3 km one comes to the ancient temple of Sungra, which is built in the Pagoda style and stands amidst dense pine forests. This temple is dedicated to the goddess Ukha. Overnight in tents.
DAY SIX
Nichar/ Wangtu/ Shimla (195 kms)

KINNAUR
Occupying the northeast corner of Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur is a region of high mountain ranges, enclosing the narrow valleys of the Sutlej and its tributaries. In the south, The Dhauladhars, ascending eastward to meet the Greater Himalaya, divide the Sangla valley of Kinnaur from the Uttarkashi district of Uttaranchal and Shimla district of Himachal Pradesh. To the east, the vast reaches of Tibet lie across the Zaskar mountains. Between the Zaskars and the Dhauladhars, the Greater Himalaya passes through the heart of Kinnaur and the Srikhand mountains screen of Spiti on the northwest and along a short stretch on the southwest mark the border with Kullu.
The River Sutlej, entering India from Tibet at Shipki la, pierces through a seemingly impregnable series of barriers in its tumultuous journey to the plains of India. Dropping almost 2000m over 100 odd kms, as it traverses southwest through Kinnaur, the River pays scant regard to the impressive credentials of the Zaskar, Greater Himalaya and Dhauladhar Ranges. The Sutlej forms a narrow, steep sided valley which tapers into more gradual slopes, part way up the high mountains on either side. Villages are located either on these gentler slopes or in the valleys of the more substantial tributaries joining the Sutlej in the course of its journey through Kinnaur.
Kinnaur finds a fit expression in its abundant delicacy “The Pine nut”, like the tasty kernel of the nut, it may take some effort to get to the core of Kinnaur however once you are there, the experience is truly rewarding. Legend has it that Kinnaur with all its beauty and splendor fell from the clouds to take its place in the Himalayas. The place and its people find mention in many ancient Hindu texts. The ancient people of this land were Kinner and Kirats tribes – also referred to as “Gandharvas” in Vedic literature. About 2000 B.C a branch of the Aryans, called “Khashas”, penetrated the Himalaya through the Kashgar and Kashmir and dominated this whole area. Later, in the 13th and 14th centuries, “The Bhutias” came from Tibet to the region.
Due to its proximity to Tibet the lifestyle and religion of inhabitants have been influenced by Buddhism, though majority of the people practice Hinduism, Buddhism is prevalent in Northern and Central parts of Kinnaur. Imposing monasteries at Morang and Namgia have beautiful sculptures and wood carvings. The people are god fearing and honest. Some places in Kinnaur practice polyandry. Polyandry may have been a natural societal response, to limited arable land and the multifarious occupations of the men folk. However it is disappearing rapidly.
M.O.A invites you to visit this beautiful land and soak yourself in its beauty, culture and people. Our tours run extensively through Kinnaur and combine the best of Hikes and Safari to take you into the interiors, uncharted, unspoiled and untouristed. Discover the distinctive culture of this land and further in our Kinnaur odysseys.

THE SANGLA VALLEY SOJOURN
DAY ONE
Shimla – Theog – Narkanda – Hatu – Tani Jubbar – Kotgarh – Rampur – Gaura - Sarahan
Approx. 180 Kms
Catching up with National Highway 22 early morning we head on to Narkanda 2708mts. nestled amidst Sub alpine forests of fir and birch, and also serves as a winter Ski Resort. Further up the road, begins the climb towards Hatu Peak. 3200mts. the highest peak in this area well known for its grand views and the Hatu Temple dedicated to Goddess Hateshwari. The Alpine meadow of Jobagh is a twenty minute walk from here. Musings thereafter we continue on to Tani Jubbar a small hamlet by a lake side in the middle of the Apple Country of Kotgarh and Thanedar. About 60% of Himachal Apples are grown here. We zig zag our way through the apple country to the Sutlej Valley below and reach Rampur 924mts. the seat of the erstwhile Bushahir Kingdom. Magnificent view await us as we go on uphill towards Sarahan via Darang Ghori and Kinnu, the road which in earlier times used to be a shepherds trail. Crossing some spectacular cliffs enroute we reach Sarahan at 2040mts. the gateway to Kinnaur and famous for its Bhimakali Temple and the Majestic views of the Srikhand Peak 5230mts. and Gushu Pishu 5670mts. of the Srikhand range. Sarahan is the base for the annual Pilgrimage to Srikhand Peak.

DAY TWO
Sarahan – Jeori – Taranda cliffs – Wangtu – Tapri – Karcham – Sangla
Approx. 100 kms.
A visit to the bird park early morning which houses the western Tragopan and the state bird Monal we leave Sarahan for a pleasant drive down to Jeori, a few kilometers up and Kinnaur welcomes us. This is the Atharabees area of Kinnaur and frowning rock jaws descend sleepily from great heights and the roar of the Sutlej surely rises ominously from Shadowy depths. Taranda cliffs are one such sight. We enter Bhaba also known as Wangpo and this region is Pandrabees 15-20 a revenue name given to a large chunk of territory in Kinnaur and adjacent areas of Shimla and Kullu over a hundred years ago. This is the most thickly forested area of Kinnaur. At Wangtu we come to the right bank of the Sutlej and follow the NH 22 up to Karcham the confluence of the Baspa and the Sutlej. The Gerard brothers, the first outsiders to set foot in the Baspa Valley in the first quarters of the nineteenth century ranked it as the most beautiful of all Himalayan Valleys. Later visitors have been almost as Lavish in their praise. An 18 kilometer winding road through some more spectacular cliffs leads us to Sangla village.

DAY THREE
Excursion to Kamru fort and village, and Chitkul

Today is a day when we discover the Baspa Valley a.k.a. the Sangla Valley. The most impressive Shrine in the Baspa is the Kamroo Narayano Fort like Tower, Commanding fine views of the Sangla bowl and the Kinner Kailash range of the Great Himalayas. The Raldang Peak 5499. Jorkanden Peak 6473, Daboling Peak 6080 are some of the prominent peaks of which we enjoy spectacular views. The wanderlust continues as we carry on through Rakcham and Mastrang to the last village of Chitkul 3450 mts. this side of the border with Tibet. Its fields, alpine pastures and village houses are memorable sights.

DAY FOUR
Sangla – Karcham – Shongtong – Powari – Reckong Peo – Kalpa – Roghi cliffs – Kalpa.
Approx. 60 Kms.
Today is the day to bid adieu to Sangla and continue our journey to Kalpa 2960mts. via Powari, Reckong Peo the district headquarters of Kinnaur. This region of Kinnaur is known as the Sairag region and for a long time “Chini” in this area was the only place in Kinnaur of which the outside world had some knowledge perhaps due to Lord Dalhousie’s two summer visits as Governor General of India in the middle of nineteenth century and a mention in Rudyard Kiplings “Kim”. This region offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the Himalaya. Here the Kinner Kailash range appears to spread itself out for the admiring gaze of the visitor. Not so close as to induce claustrophobia, yet almost to hand, the Mountains rise majestically from the river bed up through orchard, forest and glinting glaciers to rocky pinnacles and snow-capped tops. The ‘Kandas’ meaning pastures above Kalpa are too beautiful and a great way to experience pasture country is a night camp out there. Reckong Peo has a monastery of the Mahabodhi society and was constructed specially for the Dalai Lama to perform the Kalchakra ceremony in 1992. Next to it is a 10m statue of standing Buddha, visible from a considerable distance. Chini too has a Bodh Temple visited by outsiders from the antiquity point of view.

DAY FIVE
Kalpa – Reckong Peo – Wangtu – Rampur – Narkanda – Theog – Shimla
Follow the Sutlej River up to Rampur, and thereafter the ride back to Shimla with memories of the Kinner Kailash, The Sangla Valley and Kalpa.

COMPREHENSIVE KINNAUR

DAY ONE
Shimla – Theog – Narkanda – Hatu peak – Jobagh – Tani Jubbar – Rampur – Gaura – Sarahan
Catching up with National Highway 22 early morning we head on to Narkanda 2708mts. nestled amidst Sub alpine forests of fir and birch, and also serves as a winter Ski Resort. Further up the road, begins the climb towards Hatu Peak. 3200mts. the highest peak in this area well known for its grand views and the Hatu Temple dedicated to Goddess Hateshwari. The Alpine meadow of Jobagh is a twenty minute walk from here. Musings thereafter we continue on to Tani Jubbar a small hamlet by a lake side in the middle of the Apple Country of Kotgarh and Thanedar. About 60% of Himachal Apples are grown here. We zig zag our way through the apple country to the Sutlej Valley below and reach Rampur 924mts. the seat of the erstwhile Bushahir Kingdom. Magnificent view await us as we go on uphill towards Sarahan via Darang Ghori and Kinnu, the road which in earlier times used to be a shepherds trail. Crossing some spectacular cliffs enroute we reach Sarahan at 2040mts. the gateway to Kinnaur and famous for its Bhimakali Temple and the Majestic views of the Srikhand Peak 5230mts. and Gushu Pishu 5670mts. of the Srikhand range. Sarahan is the base for the annual Pilgrimage to Srikhand Peak.

DAY TWO
Sarahan – Jeori – Taranda cliffs – Wangtu – Tapri – Karcham – Sangla
Approx. 100 kms.
A visit to the bird park early morning which houses the western Tragopan and the state bird Monal we leave Sarahan for a pleasant drive down to Jeori, a few kilometers up and Kinnaur welcomes us. This is the Atharabees area of Kinnaur and frowning rock jaws descend sleepily from great heights and the roar of the Sutlej surely rises ominously from Shadowy depths. Taranda cliffs are one such sight. We enter Bhaba also known as Wangpo and this region is Pandrabees 15-20 a revenue name given to a large chunk of territory in Kinnaur and adjacent areas of Shimla and Kullu over a hundred years ago. This is the most thickly forested area of Kinnaur. At Wangtu we come to the right bank of the Sutlej and follow the NH 22 up to Karcham the confluence of the Baspa and the Sutlej. The Gerard brothers, the first outsiders to set foot in the Baspa Valley in the first quarters of the nineteenth century ranked it as the most beautiful of all Himalayan Valleys. Later visitors have been almost as Lavish in their praise. An 18 kilometer winding road through some more spectacular cliffs leads us to Sangla village.

DAY THREE
Excursion to Kamru fort and village, and Chitkul
Today is a day when we discover the Baspa Valley a.k.a. the Sangla Valley. The most impressive Shrine in the Baspa is the Kamroo Narayano Fort like Tower, Commanding fine views of the Sangla bowl and the Kinner Kailash range of the Great Himalayas. The Raldang Peak 5499. Jorkanden Peak 6473, Daboling Peak 6080 are some of the prominent peaks of which we enjoy spectacular views. The wanderlust continues as we carry on through Rakcham and Mastrang to the last village of Chitkul 3450 mts. this side of the border with Tibet. Its fields, alpine pastures and village houses are memorable sights.

DAY FOUR
One day excursion to Sangla Kanda
Pass the village of Batseri we begin ascending to Sangla Kanda 3600mts. an extensive pasture land known for its commanding views. For the more initiated it is a two hours walk from the Kanda to Shibaling pass. Walk to the pass and back at the Kanda to set up camp for the night or else after a few hours of wandering in splendor solace we head back to our night abode at Sangla.

DAY FIVE
Sangla – Karcham – Shongtong – Powari – Reckong Peo – Kalpa – Roghi Cliffs – Kalpa.
Approx.60 Kms.
Today is the day to bid adieu to Sangla and continue our journey to Kalpa 2960mts. via Powari, Reckong Peo the district headquarters of Kinnaurs. This region of Kinnaur is known as the Sairag region and for a long time “Chini” in this area was the only place in Kinnaur of which the outside world had some knowledge perhaps due to hard Dalhousie’s two summer visits as Governor General of India in the middle of nineteenth century and a mention in Rudyard Kiplings “KiM”. This region offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the Himalaya. Here the Kinner Kailash range appears to spread itself out for the admiring gaze of the visitor. Not so close as to induce claustrophobia, yet almost to hand, the Mountains rise majestically from the river bed up through orchard forest and glinting glaciers to rocky pinnacles and snow-capped tops. The semicircle of peaks includes Raldang, Jorkanden and Kinner Kailash. Close to a saddle on the northern shoulder of Kinner Kailash, one can pick out the 17 – meter rock pillar of “Shivling”, changing colors with the movement of the sun. The ‘Kandas’ meaning pastures above Kalpa are too beautiful and a great way to experience pasture country is a night camp out there. Reckong Peo has a monastery of the Mahabodhi society and was constructed specially for the Dalai Lama to perform the Kalchakra ceremony in 1992. Next to it is a 10m statue of standing Buddha, visible from a considerable distance. Chini too has a Bodh Temple visited by outsiders from the antiquity point of view.

DAY SIX
Day walks in Kalpa
Explore Kalpa and its various Buddhist temples, the highlight being the “Gelugpa” temple in Brelingi. Also Hike in the early afternoon to Kalpa kanda a couple of hours walk above Kalpa.

DAY SEVEN
Kalpa – Rarang – Jangi – Morang – Labrang – Kanam – Ropa – Puh – Khab – Nako
Our journey today, is to a region which was opened to tourists only a few years ago, from Lower Kinnaur to Upper Kinnaur, it’s a transition in the landscape, beliefs and life styles, a 150 km journey into the history and culture of Kinnaur.
It’s an early morning today and we depart from Kalpa after breakfast. A few Kilometers and we reach Akpa on the National Highway where we take a diversion for Rarang, which is in the old revenue collection unit of Jangram. Rarang is a prosperous village and possesses the most extensive Pine nut forests in Kinnaur. However we are here for other purposes. Rarang has witnessed extensive temple building in the recent years and just outside is the newly built monastery of “Tashi Choeling”. Close to Tashi Choeling are older dwellings and temples traced to Nyingmapa adherents, while the Tashi Choeling has come in the wake of post 1960 Tibetan influences from the Drugpa sect. Rarang is also the seat of two important religious personalities after the Chinese occupation of Tibet. The older, Ga Rimpoche from Kham in eastern Tibet now largely resides in Dehradun but the young Chogyan Rimpoche spends his summer months here. The village square of Rarang is dominated by huge Chorten constructed some twenty years ago, under the direction of these two eminent personalities. Rarang also has an imprint on a rock believed to have been left by Rinchen Zangpo in the course of the night during which he miraculously constructed 108 temples! There is an interesting legend connected with the Rarang imprint. The great Rinchen Zangpo was busy constructing a temple in Ribba, across the Sutlej, when ignorant villagers frightened by the feat raised a hue and cry. Rinchen Zangpo, immediately left Ribba and in one giant leap crossed over to Rarang.
Up on the highway after our visit to Rarang is Morang, a diversion from the main road. The Lanin monastery of Morang is a superb example of contemporary work. The high, well lit, main prayer hall is adorned with beautiful frescoes, including a long series depicting the life of the Drugpa sage, Milarepa. Morang also possesses an ancient, watch tower for temple, impressively poised atop a little spur below Shilling.
Jangi is the pace where our inner line permits gets checked, welcoming you with a dusty aura of the rugged terrain surrounding it. From here on we are in the upper Kinnaur area, characterized by the terrain of the cold desert area. This marks the beginning of your forays into the land of candid revelations. On to Spillo where a diversion takes us to Labrang and Kanam which find a mention in the writings of nineteenth century travelers for their monasteries. There are three important structures in Kanam, the oldest being “Lotsawa Lhakhang”, again one o Rinchen Tsangpo’s 108 temples. At the upper end of the village is “Khache Lhakhang” constructed in the seventeenth century, by refugee groups entering upper Kinnaur in the wake of the war between Ladhakh and Tibet. Close to Lotsawa Lhakhang is the third building of note, The Kangyur House which contains the volumes of the Kangyur studied by the Hungarian scholar “Csoma de Koros” between 1826 and 1831.
Get back to the national highway, and continue up the Sutlej River towards the Pooh Namgia section of upper Kinnaur. This region covers the uppermost part of the Sutlej valley in India. The large village of Pooh 2800mts is located 300 mts above the right bank of the Sutlej and connected to the NH passing below. A little beyond Pooh we cross over to the left bank of the river Sutlej. Above the bridge is another small village, Dubling 2800mts. 10 kms further the national Highway leaves at the confluence of the Sutlej with the Spiti river at Khab. We are in the Hangrang region of Kinnaur now and the landscape bears stark similarity o that of Spiti. The Highway climbs steeply after the confluence, up the eight Ka loops on the left bank of the river, to reach the first houses of Hangrang. A link road 7kms branches off from here to connect Nako to Mulling. Nako is a most picturesque location by the side of a small lake. The flanks of the Reo Purgyal 6816 mts, the highest in Himachal, descend in gradual, rounded slopes till they meet the green of the irrigated fields. Here the gradient becomes even gentler, easing into numerous glacier-created hollows on the hillside, before descending sharply to Spiti. In one of these dips is the Nako Lake, with the village clustered on a little rise to the west. Come dusk which apparently may be the time when we also reach Nako, its twilight zone appearance makes a strong impression on the senses, heightened by the crescendo of hundreds of birds twittering among the lake side willows as the sun sets over the Srikhand Range.

DAY EIGHT
Day Walks in Nako
Nako’s temple complex, also credited to Rinchen Tsangpo, has four, crumbling, stone walled, flat-roofed shrines. Age and neglect are their strongest features despite recent attempts at preservation. Tattered “Thankas” and damaged frescoes are sad testimonials to a proud past, when a better preserved temple, ranked high as a place of worship. One of the temples is dedicated to the local deity Purgyal representing the spirit of the mountain. The main Hall, the Lhakhang Cenpo, is located at the western end facing east. Large clay images of the five Dhyani Buddhas occupy pride of place while sundry other idols are arranged on the walls in the style of Tabo “Dukhang”. Vanishing murals of different “mandalas” are just about decipherable. The three halls also contain clay figures and wall paintings of obvious antiquity. An unusual fresco, above the doorway in the southern temple, depicts a personage of importance; bestride a white “kyang”, the Tibetan wild ass.
A track from Nako winds to Tashigang monastery, which is a walk of four hours from here. Tashigang is a veritable treasure house of artifacts. The small complex was built in the seventeenth century by craftsmen displaced in the wake of the war between Ladhakh and Tibet. It is called the Tashigang rong Monastery to differentiate it from the better known Tashigong Cham in the Indus valley in western Tibet. Tashigang is the seat of an incarnate Lama, “The Urgial Tulku Rimpoche”, now resident in Jangi and Burche (near Wangtu). The chief image at Tashigang is a small mud idol of Mila Repa with turquoise coloured hair, ensconced in a glass-fronted cavity in the chest of a large Sakyamuni clay image. Legend says that the hair on the Milarepa figure grows back if trimmed! Around the Altar and in an inner room, is a mélange of clay idols, bronzes, exquisitely carved figures on wood panels, religious artifacts and symbols. Many of these have come from Tibet, brought by refugees’ crossing over at the time of the Chinese take-over in 1960. An hour’s walk beyond Tashigang is the cave temple of Somang, where a levitating Lama is said to have meditated in the 1980’s.

DAY NINE
Tashigang – Namgia – Pooh – Jangi – Reckong Peo – Kalpa
From Tashigang, down the valley it’s a descent flanked by great views of the Gangchua’s snow capped pyramid, to Namgia, just a few hours short of Shipki La, into Tibet. Probably one of the greatest rock faces in the world, The Reo Purgyal and its immense bulk presents an awe inspiring view from Namgia.
Our Vehicle waiting for us at Namgia picks us up and we Journey to Pooh from here to visit Pooh’s old Gompa. It possesses besides the usual wall paintings and clay images, a real treasure in the shape of an immensely valuable, illustrated volume of the “Prajnaparamita” (Book of Wisdom). Dr. Klimburg-Salter is of the opinion that the style of the images and other images suggest that the book may date to the 11-12th centuries and is perhaps the only complete Tibetan manuscript containing illustrations, known from such an early date. Pooh also possesses a more secular object of similar antiquity. Near the hamlet of Koro, a rock inscription stands out in the barley fields, with a message of considerable significance. It is credited to Ye-She-Od, the lama king of Guge, in the age of Rinchen Tsangpo’s prolific temple building activity.
Back the same way, the national Highway 22, to Kalpa, with the Kinner Kailash standing tall in front of us, quietly embracing us in its fold for our journey in its shadow.

DAY TEN
Kalpa – Reckong Peo – Wangtu – Jeori – Rampur – Luhri – Tattapani
The last day of our sojourn to Kinnaur, gracefully we travel the miles of the Highway 22, with captivating memories to Tattapani. Wash the days of hiking and great journey to the Himalayas in the hot Sulphur water of Tattapani, by the banks of the River Sutlej, to freshen yourself up. Celebrate and live each moment of your odyssey by the bonfire in the evening.

DAY ELEVEN
Tattapani – Naldehra – Shimla
Back to Shimla after an enriching experience.

DISCOVER KINNAUR BY FOOT

“ACROSS THE RIDGES TO REST HOUSES “……………Romancing the Old HT route

LEG ONE: DAY ONE
Shimla – Theog – Narkanda – Hatu peak – Jobagh – Tani Jubbar – Rampur – Gaura – Sarahan
Catching up with National Highway 22 early morning we head on to Narkanda 2708mts. nestled amidst Sub alpine forests of fir and birch, and also serves as a winter Ski Resort. Further up the road, begins the climb towards Hatu Peak. 3200mts. the highest peak in this area well known for its grand views and the Hatu Temple dedicated to Goddess Hateshwari. The Alpine meadow of Jobagh is a twenty minute walk from here. Musings thereafter we continue on to Tani Jubbar a small hamlet by a lake side in the middle of the Apple Country of Kotgarh and Thanedar. About 60% of Himachal Apples are grown here. We zig zag our way through the apple country to the Sutlej Valley below and reach Rampur 924mts. the seat of the erstwhile Bushahir Kingdom. Magnificent view await us as we go on uphill towards Sarahan via Darang Ghati and Kinnu, the road which in earlier times used to be a shepherds trail. Crossing some spectacular cliffs enroute we reach Sarahan at 2040mts. the gateway to Kinnaur and famous for its Bhimakali Temple and the Majestic views of the Srikhand Peak 5230mts. and Gushu Pishu 5670mts. of the Srikhand range. Sarahan is the base for the annual Pilgrimage to Srikhand Peak.

LEG ONE: DAY TWO
Sarahan (2165 mts) – Chaura (1800 mts) 13kms
The first three Km out of Sarahan lie along a motor road, till one crosses the shoulder of the steep bare ridge falling to the NH a little beyond Jeori. Now begins the walk along the old HT route, traversing around the semi-circular bowl of Badhal, the last village of Shimla district. The Sutlej lies far below, as the next ridge called Manotidhar is approached. Standing on this divide, a short detour from the main track, one looks into Kinnaur. Over 900 meters below, strung out along a thin ridge, is Kafour, the first village of Kinnaur. Descending from Manotidhar, through a mixed forest of Pine, oak and rhododendron and then past fields, orchards and a young Deodar thicket, the Chaura forest rest house is reached.
Over a hundred years old the Chaura rest house is small however comfortable. In a nearby grove of blue pine, jungle pheasants come in to roost in the evenings, cuckoos call in the oak and horse chestnuts and it feels good to put one’s feet up on the railings and stare across the steep, rocky slopes topped by thick spruce forests, on the other side of the river.

LEG ONE: DAY TWO
Chaura (1800 mts) – Taranda (2240 mts) 9kms
The second day, just out of Chaura is Saundhar. This ridge offers the first view of the Kinner Kailash on the old HT road. Local legend has it that the huge rock above was at one time home to mighty serpent, which devoured unwary wanderers. It seems a peaceful enough place now and school children, reciting lessons at the primary school just above the path, dispel any such terrifying visions.
From Saundhar, the next ridge, Thindeoring, is clearly seen and just across this the Taranda rest house, an 8 Km walk, curving around the Chaunda Nullah, before Thindeoring is reached from where it is a climb to the rest house which like others on the Old Ht route is more than 100 years old.

LEG ONE: DAY THREE
Taranda (2240 mts) – Ponda (1800mts) 8Kms
It is a short walk to another landmark rest house on the Old HT road on the third day. Beyond Taranda, the older HT road takes off from the rest house, through Deodar, Pine and Oak forest and winding around the hillside, descends sharply to the Solding stream. The more frequently used 1930’s path lies below the Taranda fields. Below are the Taranda cliffs, an impressive stretch of rock walls falling straight down to the Sutlej, 600mts below. Across the Sutlej, the Kamba cliffs complete the picture of a narrow impenetrable gorge. About 300mts below the HT road is the NH. Gouged out of sheer rock, its construction is an engineering marvel of the late 1950’s. The 1930’s alignment, hewn out of the same rock with chisel, crowbar and hammer, is no less a feat of its time. Less than an hour out of Taranda, the track takes a sharp right, away from the roar of the Sutlej and into the valley of Solding. The Solding rivulet has two tributaries which join up just below the village. After crossing them, there is a steep ascent to the Ponda – Bari link road and then a little over a Km along the Motor Road, lies Ponda rest house built in 1886.

LEG ONE: DAY FOUR
Ponda (1800mts) – Nichar (2200mts) 8kms.
Ponda to Nichar is another 8km along a motor road, past the village of Kangosh and through the dense deodar forest belonging to Sungra Maheshwar. Amidst the forest, the temples of Maheshwar and his lesser acolytes flank the road on either side, lending to the scene the quiet air of a Greek temple retreat. Nichar, one time headquarters of the upper Bushahir forest division, boasted one of the most impressive deodar stands in the Sutlej valley a century ago. Andrew Wilson, an Englishman traveling the road in 1873, wrote admiringly of trees with 12 meters girth, however the present forest is only an abbreviated shadow of this former magnificence.
Nichar – Wangtu 5kms
It’s a steep 5km descent from Nichar to Wangtu, where the old HT road and the NH merge, till Tapri 11kms further ahead.
Wangtu – Tapri 11kms
Journey along the NH 22 in a bus/car/jeep towards Tapri which boasts of yet another old Rest house, amidst a pine grove.

LEG ONE: DAY FIVE
Tapri (1750 mts) – Urni (2500 mts) 6 kms
It’s a short climb, to Urni from Tapri. The trail is best tackled in the cool of early morning or late afternoon as Tapri gets quite warm during the summers. Perched above slopes falling steeply to Choeling far below, Urni has another of those old, two room British built rest houses.

LEG ONE: DAY SIX
Urni (2500 mts) – Roghi (2782 mts) 16 Kms
From Urni Rest house, the HT road slopes down to the Rora and after crossing the stream, ascends gradually, passing well below Miru as it curves out again towards the Sutlej. Winding around the mountain sides towards the small village of Runang, the Pine nut is increasingly in evidence. Runang, tucked dreamily away in a magnificent forest of Deodar and Holm oak, is also a landmark of sorts. A little further on, as the Sutlej resumes its gorge like course after the uncharacteristic width and gentleness near Kilba, the traveler enters the domain of the “Greater Himalaya”. Classic mountain scenery is now close at hand. The wind sloughs through mushroom topped deodars and across the river, the emerald green Baspa (Sangla River) meeting the turbid Sutlej, offers a brief view of the enchanting Sangla Valley. Then, the forested flanks of Kinner Kailash rise up with the firs on the tree line giving way to Pasture, rock and ice above Harang Ghati. Approaching Roghi, the roar of the Sutlej far below is clearly audible. The already steep hillsides turn sheer on the Roghi – Kalpa Stretch. The Roghi Cliffs, falling straight down to the river, clearly visible over 900 mts below, are a spectacle, a daunting area for those without a head for the heights and fraught with risk, as in the old days many an English Riders discovered if on a skittish horse. Roghi again has a comfortable, two roomed, over 100 years old rest house looking down to the village situated across a small stream with the grand vista of the Kinner Kailash range as a background.

LEG ONE: DAY SEVEN
Roghi (2782 mts) – Kalpa (2800 mts) 6 Kms
From Roghi to Kalpa, the HT road has been widened and made motorable, reducing considerably for walkers, the terror of the Roghi cliffs. We have the choice of either walking the distance or ride on a Bus/car/Jeep to Kalpa. This region of Kinnaur is known as the Sairag region and for a long time “Chini” in this area was the only place in Kinnaur of which the outside world had some knowledge perhaps due to hard Dalhousie’s two summer visits as Governor General of India in the middle of nineteenth century and a mention in Rudyard Kiplings “KiM”. This region offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the Himalaya. Here the Kinner Kailash range appears to spread itself out for the admiring gaze of the visitor. Not so close as to induce claustrophobia, yet almost to hand, the Mountains rise majestically from the river bed up through orchard forest and glinting glaciers to rocky pinnacles and snow-capped tops. The semicircle of peaks includes Raldang, Jorkanden and Kinner Kailash. Close to a saddle on the northern shoulder of Kinner Kailash, one can pick out the 17 – meter rock pillar of “Shivling”, changing colors with the movement of the sun. Further down 13kms Reckong Peo has a monastery of the Mahabodhi society and was constructed specially for the Dalai Lama to perform the Kalchakra ceremony in 1992. Next to it is a 10m statue of standing Buddha, visible from a considerable distance. Chini too has a Bodh Temple visited by outsiders from the antiquity point of view.

LEG TWO

“THE KINNER KAILASH PARIKRAMA”
For the Hindu or Buddhist, to perform a “Parikrama” is to circum-ambulate a holy place, be it temple, lake or mountain. The most sacred parikrama for the devout is the circumambulation of Mt.Kailash (The Abode of Shiva) and the adjacent Mansarovar Lake in Tibet. Interestingly the lake is also the source of three main River systems in the Indian Subcontinent, The Indus, The Sutlej and The Brahmaputra. Lesser substitutes, of considerable local significance, include the Parikrama of the Kinner Kailash massif.
A parikrama is always performed in a clockwise direction with the sacred precincts on one’s right. The Traditional Parikrama of the Kinner Kailash was a long journey on foot, stretching over 200 kms. Beginning from the Buddhist temple at Powari, at the base of the Holy Mountain, the route wound up the left bank of Sutlej, into the Tedong or Tirung valley, over the Charang pass, down the Baspa and back to Powari again. At Powari and every village thereafter, lighting a lamp at the local Buddhist temple was an essential part of the pilgrimage. Now motor roads have shortened the walk to a five day trek from Thangi in the Tedong valley to Chitkul, the highest village in the Sangla valley just short of the border with Tibet. The traditional timing of the yatra requires that the pilgrim reach Charang, the last village in the Tedong valley, on the Hindu day of Janmashtmi (Lord Krishna’s Birthday). This day usually occurs sometime in August and this remains the best time for the Parikrama, although it is possible to undertake the trek even two-three months earlier and till as late as the first half of October. Less devout travelers can undertake the journey in an anti-clockwise direction but route conditions definitely favor the way of the faithful.

LEG TWO: DAY ONE
Kalpa – Ribba – Thangi 2800mts
After a brief orientation and stocking up with supplies and trek staff we find ourselves journey in a jeep, sampling the villages under the shadow of The Kinner Kailash to Thangi. Set up camp and enjoy a good sleep to begin the trek tomorrow.

LEG TWO: DAY TWO
Thangi – Lambar 2950 mts ….. 5 – 6 Hrs
Start early morning after breakfast. Just out of Thangi, above the old path is a foot print like impression credited to Rinchen Tsangpo, the Great Translator. There is a mule track till the point where we start descending to Tedong at Guldum. From here on it is along the valley bed. Past the flood plain of the Shakrang Nullah, the little hamlet of Lambar comes into sight, on the other side of the river. Lambar’s houses shaded by huge walnut trees cling to the right bank of the Lambar stream. The valley widens a little here, the Tedong prattles at a gentler pace, and young deodars and pines add to the charm. Set up camp.

LEG TWO: DAY THREE
Lambar – Charang 3450 mts
The Traditional Parikrama route requires one to visit Kunu, before moving on to Charang. Soon after Lambar the trees begin thinning out. First to go are the deodars, then the pines, and thereafter the birch. Finally only the Junipers are left in occasional clumps, to break the monotony of bare soil and rock-strewn hill side. The path from Guldum onwards is through river bed moraine, with frequent detours over rock faces or steep sedimentary deposits. This, tiresome stretch continues up to the flats of Shurtingting, a few kilometres short of Charang. The track which stays on the right bank after the crossing of the Tedong for Thangi, switches to the left, about 8kms short of Charang. For Kunu one continues up the right bank. Just past Shurtingting, the stream coming from the Simthang pass route to Tibet, joins the main river on the right. Kunu 3400mts can be seen amidst gently sloping fields, a little way up this valley. The main route to Charang lies through the flats of Shurtingting. These spacious riverside terraces are dotted with juniper trees, trained head high by the fuel wood demands of the locals.

LEG TWO: DAY FOUR
Charang – Lalanti (4300mts) ………. 12kms
Beyond Charang, with the border less than 30 kms away, begins the restricted area and it is not possible for foreigners to visit Khimokul la, giving access to Tibet or cross the distant Laskar pass, leading to the Baspa at Nithal Thach. A visit to the temple of Rangrik Tungma and on return one faces a very long ascent, up through the pastures of Charang village. The ridge line is finally crossed into the upper Shurtingting valley at a point almost 4500 mts high. A cliff hanging steep descent in the shadow of the towering peak of Phawararang 6349 mts follows. A more gradual ascent and a fording of the icy cold waters of the Shurtingting stream thereafter, brings one up to the tin hut which functions as the Lalanti pass shelter.

LEG TWO: DAY FIVE
Lalanti – Chitkul………… (3450mts)
Day five sees us crossing the Charang pass 5242 mts, involves no glacier crossing, and skirts its passage all the way to the top from Lalanti. After a long haul across treacherous moraine and a final breathless ascent on a slithery scree slope, it is a long run down to Chitkul on the other side. With an early start from Lalanti it is possible to reach Chitkul by late afternoon. A delayed start or too many halts enroute increases the unwelcome possibility of descending the boulder strewn slopes in the dark.

LEG TWO: DAY SIX
Chitkul – Sangla (2650mts) …. 24 kms
One has the choice of either catching a bus to Sangla or to enjoy some of the prettiest scenery in the Himalaya, to walk to Sangla. The road moves down, through birch and pine interspersed with piles of jumbled rock. The river alternately ambles through pretty little glades or rushes through huge mounds of rock, with forested flanks and towering rock faces closing the valley on either side. Less than halfway to Sangla is the village of Rakcham, from where we go to the left bank of the Baspa, following a forest path to the village of Batseri and then via the Hurba Khud and the trout farm to Sangla village.

LEG TWO: DAY SEVEN
Exploring the Sangla valley
An excursion to the Kamru fort, dedicated to Kamakhya Devi, from where we enjoy fine views of the Sangla bowl, under the shadow of the Jorkanden Peak 6473 mts.

LEG TWO: DAY EIGHT
Sangla – Karcham – Reckong Peo – Kalpa
Overland transfer to Kalpa, to enjoy great views of the Kinner Kailash massif. Kalpa is probably one place on earth where sitting inside a room you have to wear sunglasses, for the sheer majestic view of the Kailash and its reflections.

... more continued in the next blog